Gokarna or Go Home

Title quote: Tamsin.  In the spirit of Steve and Emile's endless play on words ("We gotta Goa...")

The octopus is losing its legs.  At our largest, we had built up to a group of 8 people, wildly exploring and feeling out the nooks and crannies that we encountered.  We have since dropped to 5 and in 2 days, 3 more will leave India (myself included).

A group of 8 people is theoretically hard to travel with.  Moving from point A to Point B can be difficult, either because you need to arrange transportation (3 rickshaws, 1 giant taxi, train tickets...), accomodation (3 rooms? 2 huts? 3 huts?) or because people get sidetracked.  Not pointing any tentacles.  We all have our weaknesses.

The final five moved to Gokarna a couple of days ago.  A new beach, promises of temples.  And neo-hippies wielding didgeridoos (true to the guidebook's warning).  We ended up on a coastal hike, scrambling up rocks, grasping at roots and tree trunks (after making sure they were not hanging snakes) as we tried not to slip on the small pebbled animal path.  It was amazing.  After two and a half hours we exited the thorny bracken, thoroughly drenched, stinky and exhilarated.  Only slightly scratched, bitten and frazzled.  We never did find the promised temples (though Sara found a fence that she could not penetrate) by the time we arrived at the next beach.  And awarded ourselves as we do at least 3 times a day:  with food and drink.

One more reward found at that beach: Ayurvedic massages.  Think of a serious oily rubdown executed on your loincloth-clad body.  Pictures not included.

 Steve gets his parting wish

 So...on to supper.  Celebrate our last night as a group of 5.  Try out some new dishes or old favourites.  Prawns, kingfish, calamari, paneer have all been daily staples.  Dals, masalas, kormas, a new vocabulary that needs to be brought home.

And as for going home...I'm excited.  3 weeks away is time enough to make you re-appreciate your country, home, family, friends, life.  Allows you to fall in love all over again.

Reasonable Rats

This is a very English speaking country (I haven't had much need for hindi other than "thank you, hello, good bye and very good or very nice!"), but sometimes the earnest signs are more laughable than persuasive.  "Lane driving, safe driving" (no doubt!), "India Furniture Cum Sale" (um, excuse me?) and "...Reasonable Rats" (I hate arguing with the illogical ones).

New Year's Eve was spent at another market where I perfected my bartering skills, came away like a bandit, admired the shackled chickens who were awaiting their dinner debut and made my way through baskets piled high with dried fish.  Gulped down a sweet Limca (lime soda) as the sun won the war against hydration and electrolytes.  Found the public squat toilets, paid my 2 Rupees (not the 5 the guard was trying to finangle) and picked my way across the wet floor.

The merchants come from everywhere around India.  These two, mother and son from Karnataka,  have the best smiles and greeted us every day.  Gave them some business today, learned a bit about their lives.  The boy would be in school, but he is not a resident here in Goa so can not go, must wait til he returns home (March?).  Though home in Karnataka is no home at all...think shanty town, tarp houses, no electricity or water.  And a dad who doesn't work, but drinks.  Rent for the month, here in Goa, is 4000 rupees, expensive for them.  That's approximately $100, 1/5 of what I gave them today.

We are the lucky ones.  It bears repeating, though:  That kid has got the best smile (and spirit to go with it).